I am not the Versace client. I think this is for a number of factors to be honest. I tend to think less is more when it comes to prints and also, I am not paying Versace prices. However, I think the news that Zayn from One Direction designing for Versace is something I need to discuss.
I feel deeply uneasy about the intrusion of celebrity into the fashion world. I understand that people are not just people defined by labels of work anymore (like artist, singer, actress, etc) but actual global brands that do a bit of everything (google Beyonce) and branch out. I don't know if that is my issue or not.
We have all seen when this happens badly, Kanye West's first forays into fashion were laughed at originally for not fitting the models and being badly made. I feel this is partially driven by the factor that West repeatedly tweets that he is god and expects to just 'fit' into fashion because he wants to. In comparison, Rihanna for Puma (Fenty x Puma) is adored by critics but there is a distinct lack of attitude that goes along with it.
Attitude aside for a minute, I do not like where this is going in terms of the clothing industry.
We are pushing graduates out of the industry.
So think about it. Most design houses have graduates designing who have studied some form of design. Not everyone in fashion studied fashion. The most famous example of this being Christian Dior studying political science. That is no joke either! But then a lot of designers do have formal backgrounds in fashion from reputable schools such as McQueen/ McCartney at Central Saint Martins or Donna Karan at Parsons. There are notable designers who didn't study fashion like Coco Chanel who literally learned the trade from a young age. If design houses stop hiring graduates to design because, they have celebrities to trade off then what is the point?
Marketing wise, this makes great sense. Zayn is a big celebrity and there is a lot of media attention on his next move career wise. He also has a model girlfriend who is watched by millions. So if you had access to this in terms of social media and media in general - why would you not use it? His previous background in fashion comes from sitting front row (marketing again) and also steamy photoshoots with his girlfriend in Italy. Oh and a shoe collaboration coming next year with Giuseppe Zanotti.
The vacant spot for Versus designer has been a result of the departure of Anthony Vaccarello for Saint Laurent in April. The collaboration between Versus and Zayn will be released in May to editors and buyers in a capsule collection for men and women. If your looking at the possible profits this could muster then look at his girlfriend's collection for Hilfiger. I wonder if its about making these brands more accessible as well?
Donatella Versace's statement about this collaboration was interesting and telling. It reads as 'marketing ploy' rather then a 'we think he'd be awesome designing' sort of thing. "Versus is everything that the Versace line is not. It is loud, it is rebellious — I don't want shoppers buying both from Versus and Versace. The houses have different souls," Donatella Versace told the Times. "I wanted Zayn because he can help me talk to his followers. I want to listen to their language. I want to learn more about them, what they think and what they like. They are a new generation that without working with someone like Zayn, I will never reach." So basically, I want to talk to the youth that aren't buying my clothes and rather then hire a marketing team or understanding the needs of the youth market in terms of design, I am going to hire a famous person they admire.
This again, makes me nervous. In one respect, being open and accepting in fashion is great. Not everyone has the entry into the business that they need but then again, this is why. This is a spot that could have been taken by a person who has a background in design or needs it. If you argue that okay, most students fresh out of school are not going to be hired by Versace immediately then yes, you are right. However, a designer moving into that position moves more people up the ladder and eventually into these positions.
I just hope this isn't going to be a case that we see the same celebrities in the same roles over and over again. I'm hoping this isn't going to be a Kanye situation where the same show is being thrown out again and again. I mean if you google the Yeezy season one and Yeezy season four - same thing right?! I want to see people getting a chance and the more we just keep using celebrities for things then the less likely it is to happen.
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